The Lycian Way with Baby and Tent – Transition Back
Short Summary
From the end of the Lycian Way, everything happened in quick succession: six stops and eight days back to Zurich. The days were full of contrasts, much driving and much eating. Despite all the “last times,” there were also many new first times – there were goodbyes, arrivals, and the in-between. Not yet fully here, no longer quite there. A story about growing together – and about how Ivo still ended up one centimetre shorter. Nice.
Farewell to the Lycian Way
Shortly after we raised our hands to hitchhike, a car stopped. We saw a dog and, after a short hesitation, got in – Ivo with Cleo in the front seat to protect her from the dog, and Marie in the back. It turned out there were two dogs in the car, sometimes sitting in the front, sometimes in the back – and sometimes directly on Marie. They licked her while she pulled an unused lint roller from under herself. The dogs were called Bam Bam and Bebiş – two friendly bulldogs.
The driver, Özhan, told us, after a short stop to buy a hammer, about his life at 1,800 metres altitude. The temperatures up there were pleasant and better for the dogs, but soon he wanted to move back to the city and work as a truck driver – of course with the dogs. He explained a small detour along a side road by saying that his car had failed the TÜV inspection, and after two police warnings, he would face a fine on the third. In the end, he kindly dropped us off at a bus stop where we could catch a direct bus with seats to the city. So hospitable!
The bus was crowded, hot and stuffy, but after 40 minutes we were in Antalya, right in the tourist quarter. We explored the city, sampled culinary specialities, were briefly tempted to buy a Louis Vuitton bag, and ended the evening with Katmer, a Turkish dessert.
The next morning continued indulgently: three pieces of baklava turned into six. Cleo was again generously gifted – with baby soap and a Turkish breadstick. On this trip, hardly a single day passed without someone giving her something: eggs, banana milk, cake, money, cheese spread, fruit, chocolate, or biscuits (sometimes dipped in tea).
Back to Kaş
From the metropolis of Antalya, we took a bus back to places we had previously walked through: Ulupınar, Göynük, Finike, Demre – and finally to Kaş, a town of about 9,000 inhabitants.
There we had a full program: we wanted to buy treats – tahini-pekmez mixture, Turkish delight – and eat more treats. Finally, Ivo was introduced to Kumpir – and a new friendship was born. There was also another round of Manti and a swim at sunset. We checked into the same guesthouse as three weeks earlier. Amazing how much had happened in that time.
Small Island, Great Freedom: Kastellorizo
The next day we took the short ferry (7 minutes) to Kastellorizo, a tiny Greek island only two kilometres from the Turkish mainland – with just 550 inhabitants. After one day, we felt like we knew a third of them.
We explored the village, went to a paradise-like beach, and enjoyed the feeling of being on an island with limited options. Choosing a restaurant was easy – you could look at all of them and then stay where it felt right. It was also nice to have a bit of variety again in our menu choices.
The colourful houses along the harbour, swimming and strolling – everything felt quietly sleepy. Each day a few tourists came over from Turkey but usually left again in the evening. We stayed overnight and experienced how the village became even calmer. Somehow, Kastellorizo felt like being in between.
For us, Kastellorizo is an absolute recommendation for a relaxing, slow-paced holiday without any fear of missing out. The people are calm and friendly. Our guesthouse owner, for example, was completely unfazed when we told her we didn’t have cash at the moment: “We’ll see each other again during the day anyway” – and of course she was right. We met her at the bakery and again in the evening when she got out of a car. It still remains a mystery to us why there are even cars on the island.
Sunrise and Departure
After a night full of mosquitoes, we climbed up to one of the highest points on the island at sunrise, with a view over Kastellorizo and as far as Cyprus. We could easily have stayed a few more days – but it was from this tiny place that our ferry to Athens would depart.
While enjoying our new favourite drink, a Freddo Espresso (we had thus completed the transition from tea to coffee), we asked the waiter where the ferry would leave from. “You’ll see it,” he said – and he was right.
A little while later, the ferry arrived. It was huge compared to the village – there were probably more berths on the ferry than beds on the island.
The husband of our guesthouse owner also boarded – along with what seemed like a quarter of the island’s population – and so we left this peaceful place behind.
20 Hours, 7 Stops, 1 Cabin and the Last Days in Greece
Our ferry to Athens took around 20 hours and made seven stops: Rhodes, Symi, Tilos, Nisyros, Kos, Kalymnos, Astypalea. During the day we sat in the lounge and reflected on the first half of our hike, seeing many of the places we had passed earlier now from the sea. For the night we got a cabin after all and slept like marmots.
Early in the morning there was a knock at the door: we would arrive an hour earlier than expected. So we packed our things and left the ferry for a short Athens intermezzo.
The ride to our accommodation – Thomas’s apartment – was surprisingly quick, and we arrived already in the morning. After several bakeries, restaurants and another Freddo Espresso, we continued to Patras, where we would catch the next ferry.
Our last meal in Greece was spectacular – and deserves to be mentioned. A worthy conclusion to this leg of the journey: we ate our way through a Greek menu available only in Greek, with the help of a friendly waiter. When we were already completely full, he brought us two more plates of dishes offered “on the house”. After that, we literally rolled onto the ferry.
There, by pure coincidence of course, we settled in the Espresso Room, where we set up our base for the next 24 hours. On board with us: around 100 students from a Berlin school who had been on a class trip in Greece – wonderful to see sustainable travel being taught so early on.
However, the deck was quite crowded. When a small, cheerful group joined us late at night and Ivo was woken by loud laughter around midnight, he kindly but firmly told them we wanted to sleep – and it was immediately dead silent.
The crossing dragged on a bit, as we didn’t arrive in Ancona until 5:30 p.m. the next day. But we enjoyed the time by the empty pool – with, of course, another Freddo Espresso – met lovely people of all ages and found time to document our travel experiences in a report for Cleo.
Reflection on the Waves
As we gently rocked over the waves, we thought about what we would take from this journey – and how the transition back to everyday life might unfold.
The trip was phenomenal. It was so beautiful to see Cleo in so many new situations, cheerfully interacting with people – and people with her. There were so many “first times”: her first tomato, first cucumber, first hospital visit, the first big trip with Mama and Papa.
As a family, we grew even closer; every relationship was strengthened because we worked well as a team and complemented each other beautifully. We encountered so much love. Cleo opened almost every heart that looked into her eyes – and it was wonderful to witness the reactions of so many different people from different cultures.
Through her, we connected with locals much more than we would have when travelling alone. This gratitude, joy and openness toward all cultures are things we want to bring home with us – along with the joy of life, good food (especially breakfast!) and the delight of moving together outdoors.
In Zurich, we want to continue having enough space – especially time-wise – to welcome people, nurture connections or simply follow the call of life and creativity. Ivo had bought a few extra vacation days this year – an excellent decision. We are already dreaming of new ideas for the coming years. Long-distance hiking together will definitely remain part of it, depending on how much Cleo will want to walk.
Back in Italy
After docking, several food-themed stops followed. It might sound a bit one-sided, but the “gustochromatic” variety of this journey is hard to put into words.
In Ancona, we were sitting in a pizzeria less than ten minutes after arriving, adjusting ourselves culinary-wise to Italy. Like the Hobbits with their “second breakfasts,” we treated ourselves to two dinners – the time difference had simply made us too hungry.
Between meals, we checked in, showered and arranged the room so that Cleo couldn’t fall out of bed – usually by pushing a bed against the wall. It worked almost everywhere.
The next morning brought a highlight: we had breakfast in the same café (Bagolo) where we had eaten five weeks earlier. We ordered the same as back then and watched the Italian morning bustle – countless people popping in for a quick espresso or cappuccino and a brioche, then rushing out again. We stayed for 45 minutes before taking the bus to the train station and continuing by train to Milan.
Reunion in Milan
In Milan, two reunions awaited us: on the one hand, we were happy to be back in a city filled with beautiful memories. On the other, on the square in front of the station, Ivo’s mother sat absorbed in a yoga book – we spent a wonderful lunch and afternoon together.
Perhaps there will someday be a dedicated post about Chinese food in Milan, because that was our next highlight.
Another “first time”: Ivo’s pedicure in Milan. For over an hour, one centimetre of callus was scraped from his feet while he chatted with the Chinese foot care specialist about life and everything else. When we went to pay, the owner of the salon came in – and after a short conversation, we found out that he and Ivo had been “classmates” at Peking University. We even received a 20% discount if we visited his restaurant.
Coming Home
On the way to the station, there was still bubble tea and Chinese fortune cookies. Fittingly, Marie’s cookie said: “A journey is waiting for you” – the anticipation for the next trip has already begun. And soon we were only three hours away from Zurich. On the train, the Swiss German became more frequent, as familiar to us as it had been on the ferry. We already felt almost home – with the Swiss announcements about two-minute delays.
While we were writing this post, the subtenants had already moved out, the backpacks were checked once more for bedbugs, and by early evening we arrived – and began the adventure of Zurich right away with a refreshing swim in Lake Zurich.
In the coming weeks, not only the autumn colours and trees will change drastically, but also much else: Cleo will start daycare, Marie will return to work, and Ivo will begin his meditation course. Perhaps there will one day be another update here – about the small, everyday adventures to come.
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