The Lycian Way with Baby and Tent – The Terran Journey

German version

A few months ago, we only knew one thing: we wanted to go on a long journey together – without flying. (That’s what “terran” means.) Everything else was still open.

So, we started writing a list of what mattered to us: exploring together, the sea, hiking, time, warmth, good food.

It quickly became clear: the Lycian Way was the perfect adventure for us. 500 km along the southern coast of Türkiye, in a hospitable culture, with delicious food – and all of it reachable without a plane. The route: two roughly 24-hour ferry rides (the second one could also have been shorter), plus a 1.5-hour ferry connection and two train rides – one to Ancona, the other between Patras and Athens.

Since we are both experienced travelers and hikers, our biggest uncertainty was camping with a baby and dealing with high temperatures while hiking. Weather-wise, mid-September to October seemed ideal – with average highs below 30 °C. In reality, though, it was still 35 °C when we set off.

Our test trip in Ticino turned out to be invaluable for camping: we pitched our tent next to the Capanna Cremorasco and tested our gear. Afterwards, we felt much more confident. In addition, we sought advice at the Travel Medicine Center at the University of Zurich and got a few vaccinations.

Preparation & Departure

At the beginning of September, it was finally time to leave. With a bit of luck, we managed to sublet our apartment for the entire trip within three weeks. (We posted ads on Flatfox, Tutti, Immomailing and Ronorp – most responses came via Flatfox, none from Ronorp. Tutti also automatically shared the listing on Homegate.)

Apartment prepared, professional and personal matters settled – and off we went on our six-week journey.

The first leg took us by train from Zurich via Innsbruck to South Tyrol, where we visited Ivo’s family and one of Marie’s friends. Our backpacks weighed 14 kg and 10.3 kg – including 5 liters of water and two days’ worth of food.

Train to Ancona & First Ferry

From Bolzano we traveled via Bologna to Ancona, where we spent the evening tasting our way through the city. The next morning, we boarded the ferry to Patras. Our goal: to get on board as early as possible and secure a good sleeping spot – since we hadn’t booked a cabin.

Luckily, we found a great place that became our base camp for the next 24 hours. At first, we weren’t sure about traveling without a cabin, as one would have cost around 300 CHF more. We decided: first try without, and if necessary, book one for future journeys. The experiment was a complete success! Especially since we had mats to sleep on – and in fact, upgrading on board would also have been possible.

The trip was very relaxed. Cleo beamed at everyone, everyone beamed back, and we met several children her age. The ferry from Ancona to Patras runs six times a week, and to Igoumenitsa daily.

We had brought plenty of provisions (takeaway from Ancona, bread, cheese, instant noodles, muesli ingredients, nuts, crackers, fruit and 6 liters of water for 24 hours) – so we didn’t need to rely on on-board meals. Still, we treated ourselves to a vegan decaf cappuccino, and on the second ferry, a vegetarian lunch.

Greece

From Patras we took a bus to Kiato and from there the train to Athens (running hourly to every two hours). We gave ourselves 48 hours to enjoy Greek cuisine – wonderful! We were amazed by the freshness of the ingredients, the variety of vegetarian dishes and the warmth of the people – especially towards Cleo.

Besides eating, we also did some sightseeing: the Acropolis, and long walks through different neighborhoods.

Then we took the metro to Piraeus harbor and boarded the ferry to Rhodes (since from there the ships continue on to Fethiye).

Second Ferry & Rhodes

On this ferry we couldn’t find a suitable sleeping spot. Our attempts to do so were not very welcome either. So we decided to book a cabin – and it turned out to be a great choice. For €96 (48 per person) we got an accessible room with extra space for a baby bed. Showers, safe storage for our things, and restful sleep – it was absolutely worth it.

The next morning we noticed that many passengers had slept on the sofas in the restaurants. Without a baby, that might have worked for us too – but we were very happy with our decision. We also experienced even more “Cleo friendliness” on board: small, heartwarming encounters with all kinds of people.

The trip took 24 hours, with stops at about 10 ports (including Santorini, Crete, Karpathos). You can really explore the Greek islands beautifully by ferry. We also discovered that there are faster (and more expensive) options that cover the route in 16 hours. Our ferry cost €60 without a cabin, and the route is available several times daily.

Arriving in Rhodes was a bit of a shock: crowds of tourists, restaurants, beaches, and a very touristy old town (which is on the UNESCO World Heritage list). What was lovely, though, was that the people working there were still warm and welcoming. And swimming in the sea – with music – was a great experience.

Tomorrow we will take another ferry (1.5 h, €50, twice daily) to Fethiye. We probably won’t stay there for long – after all these cities we are eager to start the hike and get into less touristy areas.

Today, three days later, as we are sending out this post, we are already in the middle of the Lycian Way. The experience so far has been amazing – even though it is very hot with temperatures up to 35 °C. The paths and views are stunning, and surprisingly, despite always sleeping in the tent, we’ve been able to shower every day. On top of that, we’ve already enjoyed lots of delicious Turkish food – the perfect combination of nature and comfort. And most importantly: Cleo is doing wonderfully and is enjoying the adventure just as much as we are.

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